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The Wine Mook
by Leonard Maran for the San
Francisco Spectrum
| "Life
would be hell without Zinfandel."
Lou Preston |
Have you explored the Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma County? It is
a narrow one, just 16 miles long and two miles wide. Take a drive
up Highway 101 north, get off at the Dry Creek Road exit (just past
Healdsburg), head west, and you’ll see some beautiful gnarly
90-year-old Zinfandel vineyards, and find a world apart from the
City. Thirty years ago there was only one winery that marketed a
specifically designated Dry Creek Valley wine (Pedroncelli) but
there are are now fifty wineries doing so.
The Winegrowers of Dry Creek Valley hosted a day’s exploration
of its vineyards and wines last month. The day began with a panel
discussion. David Stare, of Dry
Creek Vineyard started the first new winery in the Valley (he
actually arrived here in 1972) since prohibition. Because he loved
the wines of the Loire valley in France he was the first to release
a Fume Blanc, and continues to this day to release this signature
and classic white wine.
Old Vine Zinfandel is what the valley is most known for, and these
vineyards retain their profitability but- "How do you plant
a 90 year old Zinfandel Vineyard?" Stare says: "When I
first came here, I was told that the best Dry Creek Valley Cabernet
ends up in Napa Valley wines." Certainly this is no longer
true, as you will now find not just Cabernet, but Chardonnay, Merlot,
and many newly planted varietals.
Guests were then randomly assigned to vans to tour vineyards and
end up at a winery for lunch. We lucked out in that we had George
Unti who is growing not just Zinfandel, but Grenache, Syrah,
Barbera, and Sangiovese.
He said: "Dave Rafanelli is still my hero; my wife and I moved
here because we came up to buy Zinfandel". George Unti has
been growing grapes here since 1990, and originally sold Syrah grapes
to Hartford Court (they added it to their Pinot Noir!). George’s
son Mick really loves Chateauneuf du Pape so they are very committed
to Grenache; they knock off 50% of the fruit prior to harvest to
come up with the best possible wine.
We then went to Preston
Vineyard for lunch. An amazing buffet was set up. And it included
an all-organic green salad with radicchio and tomatoes from the
estate, an eggplant dish (also grown on the property) and muffuletta
(a New Orleans style sandwich).
Someone asked about the great crusty bread and it turns out that
Lou Preston had to get a special permit from the county to bake
bread a few times a week in his wood-burning fireplace. He was just
as eager to bring us into his bakery and show us his "starter"
as he was to show us the winery.
He said when he first started baking he would forget all about
time; his wife Susan would have to remind him that they were going
out to dinner, and he’d have to haul the dough with them. In
the middle of dinner he’d have to get up and announce "Excuse
me, I have to go punch the dough."
Mid afternoon, and participants rejoined the larger group for a
barrel tasting of the 2003 vintage, as well as some finished wines.
Of the wines that are in bottle, and can be purchased, here are
a few recommendations.
The 2002 Seghesio Cortina (this vineyard is actually right next
to Unti Vineyards) Zinfandel is a winner-red and black fruits commingle
to really tempt the palate. Incidentally, if it is a tasting room
in Healdsburg that fits the bill be sure to stop in at Seghesio
Family Vineyards.
Their Sonoma County Zinfandel (called, affectionately by some,
the "Blue Cap") is consistent from vintage to vintage.
The 2002"Blue Cap" can be snagged for $12.99 at K &
L Wines, here in town.
The 2002 David
Coffaro "My Zin" is also a full and rich wine to enjoy
tonight. Also check out the 2001 Preston Syrah. Both of these wines
are premium selections at reasonable prices. Which is what the Dry
Creek Valley is all about. Salud!
Email Leonard Maran at Lmaran@SFSpectrum.org.
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